Upward and Onward December 12, 2008

I just want to thank everyone who has taken the time to peruse my blog!

With the new change on the Word Press format, it made me also think about some changes and improvements for my blog. I have decided to start up another blog on Word Press.org because it lends slightly more creative capability than it afforded to me on this format. So, that will be in the works. I will link to it from this blog once it has taken some shape, form and substance.

In light of starting a new chapter on Word Press, I’d like to highlight some of the most popular posts here on Original Adornment which have gotten the most hits so far. I will still be posting on this blog, but I will also simultaneously be working on the new blog, so please feel free to check back in and check back often!

What’s Hot in Dichroic Glass

What’s Hot In Wire-Wrapping

Google Map: The Best of the Best of NYC Boutiques Featuring Indie Jewelry

A Behind-the-Scenes Look at Doing a Real-Life Jewelry Show December 9, 2008

So, Saturday I did a jewelry show at a Salon and Spa.

You may think of  doing a jewelry show as pretty glamourous, but to give you a fuller appreciation, I documented in a time-sheet style all the behind-the-scenes, tedious, drag-out work that folks on the buying-end of things usually never see. Here is an insider’s scoop on doing a real-life show.

FRIDAY: THE NIGHT BEFORE

5:25pm: Arrive home from work, exhausted from 4 hours sleep the night before. Eat a quick dinner, suck down 2 cups of joe, extra strong.

6pm: Gather laptop and printer and head to “studio” in rear house (behind my main house). Time to do inventory! Gather up all finished necklaces, earrings, bracelets and pendants. Quickly go over all silver with polishing cloth to remove any tarnish. *Not fun because it makes my hands black and is very tedious, however, ”the jewelry must look its best!!” *Repeat that to self many times while hands grow increasingly black.*

6:33pm: Sit down with all freshly polished jewelry and do an inventory of all necklaces, earrings, bracelets and pendants. Next, I put all earrings together, except for ones part of a set, and put all necklaces, pendant and bracelet together, I loosely arrange all pieces  in portable black-velvet, zip-up cases for transport.

6:52pm: Time for tagging. Go online  to my Etsy jewelry website and print out a cut- sheet for tagging  for quick reference . *All my pieces have names, which is funny because I’m “bad with names”, so I always need a cut-sheet!

7:02pm: Time to print out the C. Otter Designs one-of-a-kind descriptions for gift boxes.  Go on Word and re-format necklace, earring, bracelet and pendant descritions to smaller font size and style for including in a gift box. Print out. *Sometimes I wonder if I go over-board, but people usually do appreciate this because it explains what materials are used in the piece and gives the jewelry a personal touch. *I ran out of paper half-way. Go back to main house and get more paper for printer.

7:16pm: Finish printing. Cut out item descriptions for gift boxes. *Can’t find scissors, run back to main house AGAIN and hunt for scissors.

7:35pm: Come back with scissors, finish cutting descriptions. *I’m half falling asleep. Agh!

8:02pm: Grab the cut-sheet and start tagging all pieces with prices.

8:31pm: Close the jewelry cases up and put in plastic storage container for transport tomorrow.

8:41pm: More Marketing and “Making It Special”. *Ugh. Gather up cardboard boxes containing necklace gift boxes, earring gift boxes, bracelet gift boxes, and pendant gift boxes. * I have 7 different colors of boxes and 4 different kinds of boxes. In a word, a lot of darn boxes. “whew”!*

Grab gold-embossed C. Otter Designs logo stickers for gift boxes incase run out of a color of box with pre-affixed sticker. *Because people always love the celery green and sky blue* Grab box of materials for display. Grab boxes with necklaces displays, earing displays, and bracelet displays, and fancy mirror with gold victorian frame.  Put all stuff in 2 large plastic storage containers.

9:20pm: *Feeling draggy and tired. Go back to main house and get a second cup of coffee. Bring back favorite CD to listen to.* Mentally go over rest of  ”to-do” list.

*About 10 minutes later* Load up storage containers in car. *I’m nervously trying not to fall over coming down the outside stairs in the bitter cold and pitch black en route to the car, with boxes almost as big as me!  Such work.

9:40pm(ish): Go to office in main house, grab manilla folder for cut-sheet and item descriptions. Go back to back house. Remember to grab  extra black gel pen and extra pricing tags.

9:50pm: Start to gather up jeweler’s tools for alterations, etc. Grab extra jump rings, finished necklace chains, and sterling and gold-filled wire. Grab extra head pins and earring hooks. Grab bank purse for change, invoice book and notepad. Put everything in cheesy dollar-store gift bag.

10:08pm: Drag out 2 card tables for display and put all stuff in car! *Feeling very, very tired at this point!! * BLEH! Thank God I am DONE. *sigh*

11:25pm: Take shower, layout outfit and jewelry set and hit the hay.

 

SATURDAY: THE SHOW

8:12am: Blaring Alarm!! Get up. Still feel pretty tired but at least I can look forward to my morning cup of coffee.  

8:50-ish am: Head out, drive through McDonald’s down the street, get coffee. *They have great coffee. Drive to bank in Court House and get $200 in change.

9:40am: Arrive at Suzy Q’s Salon & Spa for show!  Proceed to unload trunk, carry stuff in and set up in reception area in salon. 3 trips out to car. *Last trip because I forgot my keys. Everyone has noticed me coming in with all this stuff and is a mix of curiousness and coolnees. They’re sort of watching me set up from the corner of their eye, yet busily chatting away. I’m trying to go some-what “under the radar” til I’m set up, but I still need to break the ice somehow. This transition has taken practice because it’s a balance between being upbeat without being bubbly, and people are expecting me to “sell” now. This is where I have to “step into character.” In real-life I am actually on the shy side, and am more of a people-watcher type person than I am an out-going, candid, fashion diva.  I don’t think what I’m doing is entirely an act, I think it’s just more that I am forced to step outside of a comfort zone so it feels like an act initially. Sometimes I pretend that I’m Lucille Ball to get myself started, she is goofy and funny. I guess I can relate with Lucy, because I’m goofy, so this works for me.  This “internal” transition from being the “hermit” beadsmith, to the disarmingly-gregarious designer is usually the toughest point of the show for me, but once I’m there, I’m fine. A key is to not focus on “me”, but on the people there, I’m there to serve them.

10:30-ish am: I finish setting up displays on the card tables and wish that I had of been slightly earlier, 4 clinets are already in their chairs, but still plenty of time. **I’m offering free shipping anywhere for Christmas, and even I have to admit, the gift boxes are really cute. The economy is horrible right now. My selling points are that each piece is hand-made by me, one-of-a-kind, and mostly all of the pieces are genuine semi-precious stone or pearl. I designed some pieces using high-quality German glass and lower-end stones to offer some more affordable pieces in the $15 range.  

10:30am-11am: Sitting by my card tables. The young, cosmetology-school receptionist is hovering around. She’s interested in 2 pairs of earrings, but not big enough of a paycheck yet for both pairs.  I purposely made some earrings prior because anything in the $15 to $20 range is usually an easy sell.  She picks out the hot-pink, dragon agates. Funny, because I almost kept them for me, glad didn’t!                                                                  Hot-Pink Dragon Agate Earrings: First sale at $15! Yah

11am-something: A lady enters the salon somewhat disshelved looking and now is annoyed that the stylist is running late. I’m right there as you come in, so it’s hard to ignore me. Ha ha. The lady cautiously browses my jewelry while pacing, just passing time really. She’s not in buying mode, and I know it, but she offers a pleasant comment that my stuff is very original. Nice of her.

11:am-1pm: 2 of the stylists are apparently really into jewelry and end up selecting several pieces for Christmas gifts while wolfing down some lunch. I am thrilled!  B-I-N-G-O 2 Stylists,  6 pairs of earrings, 1 bracelet 2 necklaces: $392

 

1pm-1:30pm: 1 lady strolls over to check out the goods. She wants someting special, but yet cute for teen-age daughter; I highly reccomend long dangly, sparkly Swarovski crystal earrings as I hold them up. It helps that I also just happen to have a matching necklace! Very chic set. It also helps that I am young, and have the fashion expertise of someone like an older sister. I say they’re “great for a date”, mom laughs and jokes that now she will really have to “beat the boys off”. Earrings at $25, necklace at $36. Mom selects “sky blue” gift boxes to match the set.                                                                                                               Daughter’s Christmas Swarovski Set: $61 

1:30pm-3pm: 2 young twenty-something girls my age head in to the salon. They spot me and it turns out they are going to office Christmas party later on. Of course they would need last-minute polyannas! I direct them to the earrings. *Earrings are always a great gift idea because they don’t break the bank and most ladies love a sweet pair. My mirror comes in very handy at this point. Visuals, visuals, visuals. The girls take a pair each for the polyanna, plus an extra set for a sister in Florida.  They love the descriptions and the gift-boxes. Good thing I have several boxes in red!!                                                              2 Office Polyannas + A Sister In Florida: $65

3:20pm: END OF THE DAY!! WHEW!

3:30-ish: Take down displays, pack up jewelry, dismantle card tables, and COUNT MONEY. $ Spend time with the stylists for a few minutes to chat and thank them. Everyone is tired and is rushing to leave and has places to be tonight. I am invited back again next Saturday to do another show. Hopefully it will be as good as this one!

** TOTAL SALES: $533 ** (I guess the economy can’t be that bad after all!)

 

Sparkle 101: A Look at Tourmaline November 29, 2008

Lately, I have been using a lot of Tourmaline in my jewelry designs. I have really fallen in love with the glistening texture and “inner sparkle” of the stone. I am familiar with many other semi-precious gemstones, but few other stones have the same refractive quality that Tourmaline does, and this quality is what I love about the stone. (My personal favorite hue of Tourmaline is bright, vibrant pink.) I began to look into some of the natural qualities of the stone, and this is some of what I found out! ENJOY

TOURMALINE: The Prismatic Stone of Many Hues

Tourmaline is a very popular gem because it comes in so many COLORS, such as green, pink, brown, yellow, red, blue and black. Tourmaline is “refractive”, or prismatic as I said because it has unique crystal properties, which make it highly “DICHROIC”, (meaning that the stone will actually change colors depending on what angle you are looking at it from.)

So what exactly makes that “inner sparkle”? The prism’s faces often have heavy “vertical striations” that produce a rounded triangular effect. The stone actually catches light from the inside because the crystals form prismatic layers or “walls” inside the stone. Tourmaline also belongs to the “trigonal” crystal system and is naturally occurring as long, slender to thick prismatic and columnar crystals that are usually triangular in cross-section. No other common mineral has three-sided prisms as Tourmaline does.

Why does it come in so many colors? If you have a tourmaline that is very deep brown to black, it is very rich in iron. If your tourmaline is medium or light brown to amber or golden, it has a lot of magnesium in it. Tourmalines that are blue, green, red, or pink are rich in lithium. Usually you do not see a clear, colorless tourmaline. “Watermelon” tourmaline is very popular, being naturally green at one end and pink at the other.

Some Fun Facts Tourmaline is the birthstone for October and it is also the stone for the 8th wedding anniversary. *My birthday is in October, so I am happy that this is one of my birthstones! *

I’d like to thank Wikipedia and Since 1910 for their excellent information on this gemstone!

**(I invite you to check back next week if you are interested in gemstones because I will be will be looking at several other stones in the following weeks!)**

Edwardian Aquamarine and Pink Tourmaline Pendant: $2,750.00

Green Modernist Tourmaline Ring $1,750.00

A Taste of Victorian: One Era, Three Design Periods November 29, 2008

Victorian Cresent Moon Sapphire & Pearl

Victorian Gypsy Heart Romance Locket

Victorian Malachite Pendant Locket

Victorian Etruscan Revival Bracelet

Victorian Silver Locket & Bookchain Collar

As promised, this week’s sweet dish is all about the scoop on VICTORIAN jewelry! Next week I will be featuring a look at Art Nouveau jewelry, so be sure to check back again!!

Victorian Jewelry (1840 – 1890)

Usually people think of the “Victorian” period as one period, and before I began doing research on jewelry history, this is what I thought. However, the Victorian period is actually a broad era that encompasses three distinct periods within it: the Romantic Period, the Grand Period and the Late or Aesthetic Period.

The Romantic Period: It’s All About The Love!

When Queen Victoria got married, love, marriage, and romance became the theme. Jewelry was not just decorative adornment, but it was actually deeply meaningful and held personal sentiments of love and affection. Earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings exchanged between family, friends, couples, husbands and wives was specifically designed to carry meaning. Some motifs of the Romantic period were: hearts, anchors (hope), snakes (eternity and everlasting love) and crosses (faith). Gold and open-backed gemstones were also very popular. So remember, early Victorian is all about the LOVE!

The Grand Period: Revisiting and Reviving The Ancient World

Characterized by motifs and themes rooted in the ancient past, this era revived patterns, palettes, techniques and designs from the Renaissance, Gothic, Greek, Roman, Etruscan, Egyptian and Celtic periods. Many of these earlier periods of design, styles and jewelry were translated and reinterpreted during the Victorian period. Exceptional master jewelers, such as Carlo Guiliano and Castellani, made an extraordinary impact on jewelry history and they took actual archaeological discoveries of jewelry, and sometimes cast new jewelry in the the likeness of the ancient jewelry. Yet, these masters also brought great creativity and individual interpretation to these relics of the past. This period focused on showcasing very meticulous, very ornate and complex designs from the ancient world.

The Aesthetic Period: Delicate Designs, Moons, Stars and Insects!

The later decades of the 19th century from around 1880 to 1901 were referred to as The Aesthetic Period. This period of time actually witnesses many other jewelry movements as well. Art Nouveau, Beaux Arts, Arts & Crafts, and even the beginning of the Edwardian period.

Although this period can be confusing with so much over-lapping, a couple things that are distinctive about this period. The style changed to designing pieces that were much smaller, more delicate, more whimsical and less formal. This period is where you start to see the stars, the crescent moons, and some of the insect and reptile designs which are drastically different than the feminine hearts and such of the Romantic period. Another prominant aspect of this period is the prominant use of DIAMONDS! Some popular diamond cuts were old mine cuts, cushion cuts, and rose stone cuts.

Again, I’d like to thank The Three Graces for their excellent information on vintage, estate and antique jewelry.

GEORGIAN JEWELRY: From Diamonds to Morbid Motifs November 22, 2008

As promised from last week! Georgian Jewelry!

The Georgian Period was from 1780-1830, it was known as a time of self indulgence and opulence in fashion design.

Catherine The Great even had over 2,500 diamonds and pearls in her crown! Jeweled bands were worn in the hair, high up on the arm and even on the legs as well. The jewelry style was wearing lighter more delicate pieces instead heavy or chunky pieces. Floral sprays, feathers, and diamond set bows are very “Georgian pieces”. The Georgian period was most definitely the “diamond era.” There was also a big demand for “white stones”, so designers came up with ideas for less expensive alternatives than a real diamond. Some of these alternatives were quartz, marcasite, as well as a technique called “paste”, which is using foil backing on faceted glass, causing lots of sparkle, similar to a real gem.

Some popular styles includes wearing rows of diamonds of graduated sizes, along with drapey chains and pearls. Something called “Cannetillle” was also popular, which was fine wire very tightly wound. It gave a very delicate look. Also, almost all Georgian jewelry pieces were handmade. This added to the uniqueness and expanded the creativity in design.

Another interesting fact was that in the late Georgian period in Germany during the war, women were encouraged to donate their gold to the war effort. So in return, they received back a lacy, back cast-iron replica of their jewelry piece. This caught on in the world of fashion and soon became a trend. Also, during the French Revolution around this time, “morbid motifs” became popular and pieces from the Bastille were actually used in jewelry, as well as the trend of wearing a tight, red ribbon, (which, yes, symbolized decapitation by guillotine.) Their version of our modern-day punk rock!

The Lapidary Journal & Sugarloaf Craft Festivals: Two Excellent Resources For Jewelry Shows & Exhibitions November 21, 2008

LOOKING TO SEE WHERE TO EXHIBIT AND SHOWCASE YOUR JEWELRY? WANT TO KNOW WHERE THE BEST IN THE BIZ GO?

Through searching and seeking, I have found that the The Lapidary Journal will give you a listing of is an excellent resource for jewelry expos and shows, and Sugarloaf Craft Festivals has been doing shows in since 1976. These are both top-notch resources that both high-end professional jewelers use, as well as artisans looking to showcase unique, quality jewelry.

Sugarloaf exhibits in such states as Conneticut, Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Georgia and Virginia. They also have a high standard for excellence and a time-tested reputation for exhibiting quality fine-art and contemporary crafts. Artists actually compete for spaces of about 300-500, so Sugarloaf  generally does not cater to “flea-market” folksy crafts. You can expect to see the best in the business.

If you are looking for a December show, below is a listing of all shows taking place in New Orleans, North Carolina, FLorida, Virginia and more. These listings are taken from the Lapidary Journal, so again these are quality shows.

• December 5-7, New Orleans, LA – AKS Gem Shows. New Orleans Christmas Gem, Jewelry, & Bead Show. Pontchartrain Center, 4545 Williams Blvd. Kay Schabilion, 504-455-6101, www.aksshow.com.
• December 6-8, Greensboro, NC – Golden Triangle Shows. Greensboro Jewelry Expo. Greensboro Coliseum Complex. 2nd-3rd, 10-6; 4th, 10-3. 770-410-9771, info@gtshows.com, www.gtshows.com.
• December 6-7, Orlando, FL – American Gem Expo. Central Florida Fair Ground Expo Center, 4603 W Colonial Dr. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Sam, 770-739-0057, www.americangemexpo.com.
• December 12-14, Kissimmee, FL – Golden Triangle Shows. Florida Jewelry Expo. Osceola Heritage Park. 770-410-9771, info@gtshows.com, www.gtshows.com.
• December 12-14, Longmont, CO – Flatirons Mineral Club. Annual Gem and Mineral Show. Boulder County Fairgrounds Exhibit Building, 9595 Nelson Rd. 12th, 10-6; 13th, 9-5; 14th, 10-4. John Hurst, 303-493-7885, john.hurst2@comcast.net, http://bcn.boulder.co.us/community/fmc/.
• December 13-14, Ft. Lauderdale/Pompano, FL – American Gem Expo. War Memorial Auditorium, 800 NE 8th St. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Sam, 770-739-0057, www.americangemexpo.com.
• December 13-14, Norcross, GA – Mammoth Rock Shows LLC. North Atlanta Gem, Mineral, Fossil, & Jewelry Show. 1700 Jeurgens Court. 13th, 9-7; 14th, 10-5. Richard Hightower, 478-935-9345, staff@mammothrock.com, www.mammothrock.com.
• December 20-21, Richmond, VA – American Gem Expo. Showplace, 3000 Mechanicsville Pike. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Sam, 770-739-0057, www.americangemexpo.com.

An Interview with Jennifer Marcantonio of Davidic Designs November 20, 2008

Jennifer Marcantonio creates absolutely gorgeous, hand-crafted, one-of-a-kind jewelry.

With an expert eye for vibrant color, luscious texture and captivating design, she not only creates beautiful pieces, but each creation is designed to speak a positive spiritual element into the life of the wearer.

Jennifer seeks to bring spiritual life to those seeking beauty. The titles of her creations say it all, “Wings of Hope”, “Life” and “Freedom” just to name a few. Ms. Marcantonio believes that her source of creativity, and the inspiration for her designs, comes from her “personal relationship with God.” She says that her pieces are actually “meant to change your life”.

Jennifer’s mission in crafting jewelry extends beyond being an artist and designer. Her vision is to see people experience the same life-giving, transformative power that she herself has experienced, and continues to experience on a daily basis. Ms. Marcantonio’s “personal walk with God” has infused her own life with such hope and transformation that she desires to see others experience the same. And she does it through creating hand-crafted jewelry. Along with her creativity, spiritual elements such as hope, love, freedom, healing and life are infused into the designs. This unique infusion of spiritual elements into hand-crafted designs, is what Ms. Marcantonio calls “prophetic jewelry”.

If you would like to visit Jennifer’s website, check out www.davidicdesigns.com

She invites you to “come and be transformed!”

Through the Ages: A Sampling of History November 14, 2008

GEORGIAN JEWELRY

Antique French Emerald Day Night Earrings

VICTORIAN JEWELRY

Sparkling Silver Paste Pendant

ARTS & CRAFTS & ART NOUVEAU JEWELRY

Art Nouveau Gargoyle Ring

EDWARDIAN JEWELRY

Edwardian Bejeweled and Beribboned French Floral Ring

ART DECO JEWELRY

Wreath of Color French Paste Earrings

From Georgian to Retro: A Delicious History in Jewelry Design November 13, 2008

Ever wonder where design concepts came from? Where they started? What period of history are we borrowing from, and perhaps building upon?

**my thoughts**

Lately, I have been researching the history of trends in jewelry design. I find it is fascinating to see what period of history designs have come from and how they evolve in their use. I have found, for example that French influence is seen in many floral motifs as well as the use of cabochons in Edwardian jewelry, (1890-1915). Conversely, Georgian and Victorian jewelry (which were both well before Edwardian jewelry), can look similar to each other. Georgian jewelry incorporates influences from the ancient cultures, such as Etruscan, as well as influences from European cultures, such as French and Spanish. Early Victorian jewelry showcased cameos, lockets, pearls, and designs featuring hearts, stars, crescent moons, and religious symbols. After Queen Victoria died and the “late Victorian”, or Edwardian period began, Queen Victoria’s son Edward expanded the influence of design even further to include continental Europe, and so French and Spanish motifs began to be seen.

Art Deco and Art Nouveau can also seem similar. However, Art Deco showcases a lot of vibrant, bold color in stones, glass and enamels, (because it took place in the jazz age.) Art Nouveau showcases a lot of metal work and unusual forms. Art Nouveau also has a very unusual, “independant” hand-crafted appeal. It almost seems to go against the ornate, romantic feminine jewelry of the Edwardian and Victorian ages. (This also has to do with the fact that, historically, the Victorian jewelry came from the taste and influence of a single ruler, the queen; Art Nouveau and Art Deco both embody much more of an independant spirit of the creativity of the people.) In doing this research, I have come across two excellent sites which I have used as resources for my above post. I have combined the expertise of Dr. Mark Clayson , jewel expert, along with information courtesy of the very reputable Three Graces, an antique, estate and vintage jewelry resource.

Here is a recap of some real pearls of a brief over-view in jewelry history, from the Georgian Period to the Retro Period! (Deeply interesting for all you history geeks as well as jewelry lovers like me. Enjoy!

• The Georgian Period: 1714-1830

The Georgian period featured naturalistic designs of leaves, birds, ribbons, feathers, flowers and insects in engraved gemstones. Intaglio was employed in gemstone design. Amethyst, turquoise, garnets and coveted pearls were seen in Georgian pieces. Georgian jewelry moved from the Rococo period to Gothic Revival and Neo-Classical. Surviving examples of actual pieces are pretty rare. A time of great opulence in jewelry.

• The Early Victorian Period: 1837-1860

The Gothic Revival Movement featured religious sentiment and enameled jewelry reflected these ideals. Floral sprays, animal themes and multicolored metal work came into prominence. Queen Victoria’s rule brought forth numerous styles ranging from from archeological revivals to mourning jewelry then to its last years of romance with moons and stars in shimmering diamonds.

• The Mid-Victorian (Grand) Period: 1860-1885

Etruscan frame designs were employed in setting elaborate multi-colored stone jewelry. Rosettes, seashells, mosaics and fringes became extremely popular. (The Etruscan period was actually several periods in ancient history. This is where is “ancient” influences infuse with Victoian design concepts. Very elaborate, geometric designs were popular. Lockets, chains, brooches and cuff bracelets were in vogue in the 1880’s.

• The Late Victorian (Aesthetic) Period: 1885-1900

This was the age of the diamond. Authentic birds, claws and scarabs were used and set in gold, bronze or silver, changing the symbolism of these time-honored ornamentations. Exquisite pendants with pearls and varicolored stones were used in the late 1880’s.

• The Arts and Crafts Movement: 1894-1923

The Arts and Crafts Exhibitions Society was formed in 1888 in opposition to the mass-production ideals of the Industrial Revolution, preferring instead to keep their workmanship generalized. These craftsmen utilized brilliantly colored uncut stones and created metalwork of silver. *Note, this is where the modern “DIY” and “indie culture” can trace back its modern roots to.

• The Art Nouveau Period: 1890-1915

Frenchman Rene Jules Lalique and American Louis Comfort Tiffany were the leading Art Nouveau jewelry makers of the time. Art Nouveau was fantastical and stylized, using many flowing and feminine elements of vines, leaves, birds, scrolls, serpents, insects and flowers in its design. A transparent enamel, Plique-a-jour, was often employed without a metal backing for light dispersion. Scrolling gold work, pearls and cabochon gemstones were used in very elaborate and romantic period. *Note, this period also goes back and re-births the naturalistic design elements that were used in the Georgian Period.

• The Edwardian Period: 1901-1910

Extremely feminine and lacy jewelry with motifs of ribbons, stars, crescents, bows and wreaths of petite flowers gave the Edwardian jewelry its delicate impression. Many pieces of jewelry of this period have an all-white look, due to inclusion of platinum gold, diamonds, pearls and moonstones. Large colored gemstones were also center pieces in jewelry design. Queen Victoria’s son Edward set a style for both art and fashion in England, and set a trend in a wider influence of design, coming from continental Europe.

• The Art Deco Period: 1920-1935
  

The Cubism movement highly influenced this period of jewelry design with geometrical patterns and angular forms. Diamonds, platinum and gemstones cut into pentagons, trapezoids and triangles figured prominently. Cardinal gemstones (rubies, sapphires, emeralds) and onyx were set against diamonds for stark contrast. Far East jade and coral and Indian Cardinal stones influenced the design of earrings, bracelets and pendants. Leading designers of Art Deco jewelry were Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, Maubousiin, Bucheron, Tiffany & Co. and Harry Winston came to prominence.

• The Retro Period: 1935-1949

During this pre and post war period, much of the precious metals were melted down for war funds. White metals were surpassed by yellow, pink and green golds, often mixed together in jewelry pieces. During the Retro Period, a patriotic look was developed using rubies, sapphires and diamonds, sometimes synthesized and jewelry fell out of favor once the US entered the war in 1941. Three dimensional, sculptural ribbon, bows and folds of metal became popular.

I will be doing in-depth posts now every week, on jewelry from these periods as I have become really fascinated with the design history of jewelry. Next week look for my posting on GEORGIAN jewelry!!

****Here are a few videos to give you a glimpse at some examples of these time pieces. The first video shows an Art Deco set, and the auctioneer gives a value for the set. Quite an expensive set!! The second video is an interview with an expert on Art Nouveau jewelry at the Boston Museum of Art. It doesn’t show the jewelry very well, but the expert shares some facts about different Art Nouveau jewelry pieces that I personally thought were interesting. BON APPETIT!!****

November 13, 2008